To visit the Zakynthos picture gallery - click HERE
Video Presentation
Introduction
We visited in September 2007.
Zakynthos is the most southerly of the Ionian Islands. The island is
also known as Zante, the Venetian name meaning “Flora di Levante”,
the flower of the east. Much of the island was destroyed by the 1953 earthquake.
It is a very popular destination. Some areas make places in Corfu, for
instance, look positively undeveloped!
The eastern side of the island is green and fertile and is where most
of the tourist resorts can be found. The west is mountainous with the
coastline dominated by towering white cliffs.
Arrival
Landing at Zakynthos International airport “D.Solomos” our
passage through arrivals was relatively straightforward. This is a new
building – departures are via the original airport building. Leaving
the island would prove to be a different matter all together.
There are flights into Zante at all hours of the day. Many people coming
from the UK had a flight leaving at midnight – arriving at their
accommodation in the early morning. It is usual that rooms are booked
from midday the day before and up to midday on the day of departure. Effectively
this means that the first night is ‘lost’ and if a room is
required for the final night (pick-up time is 03:00am), it needs to be
booked locally at an additional cost. This of course is standard practice
but unfortunately it came as a surprise to quite a lot of people at our
studios, who had to vacate their room at 12:00 noon.
Many people complained (it was quite entertaining). It was clear that
the Rep had heard it all before – probably every week. My advice
– avoid booking a night flight!
Akis Studios and Apartments
We stayed at the Akis studios and apartments.
The accommodation consists of four 2 storey blocks around a large pool
area. To the rear are nice views up to the village of Katastari and to
Mount Vrachionas. The beach and the village of Alykes are a 5 –
10 minute level walk either around or across the salt pans.
The rooms were of a good size with a large balcony or terrace. Air conditioning
costs extra at 40€ per week. The pool bar serves snacks and is open
from 9am to midnight. Packs of 6 bottles of water were on offer at 2€
- which saves the bother of carrying them from the supermarket.
There are numerous rules posted about the place about what you can and
can’t do. For instance, the pool is open between 9am and 6pm only.
However, this ultimately meant that the Akis was a quiet and relaxing
place to stay.
The village is named after the salt pans that dominate the area behind
the beach and village. The pans are no longer in use but are occasionally
flooded.
Given
the flat terrain around the village and the surrounding countryside, bicycle
hire is a realistic option at €4 per day.
There is a nice sandy beach and the sea is very shallow. To the north
the beach becomes narrow and stony but does provide an option for a quieter
non-sunbed beach experience. An isolated Fish taverna can be found about
2 kms along the beach.
There is plenty of choice and even an Indian and Chinese restaurant for
something spicy. Menus are very much orientated for the British and whilst
a good fry up at breakfast is OK, roast beef and Yorkshire pudding for
lunch is not to our taste. I suppose it is just a case of supply and demand
but I do find it odd that people travel all the way to Greece and then
spend their evenings seeking out something familiar to eat for their evening
meal. Some bars stay open late into the night but generally this is not
a place to visit if you are looking for hot nightlife.
A good way of seeing Alykes and the mountain villages is to take a trip
on “ToTrainaki” tour train. For 10 euros each the Trainaki
ventures up into the mountains to Katastari and then onto Pigadakia. A
stop at a museum is included to glimpse a view of the old Zakynthian way
of life. Evening trips to a taverna for a ‘Greek night’ are
also available. Tickets can be purchased from the Trainaki kiosk located
on the main road in the centre of the village. More information including
details of the route can be found HERE.
Another alternative method of transport readily available is by horse
and cart. Many people use then as a taxi. As an example it costs 18€
to be taken to the Greedy Greek taverna in Alykanas – this amount
is then deducted from the taverna bill.
A free ‘Sky Map’ is widely available which covers both Alykes
and Alykanas. This clearly shows the locations of the bars, tavernas and
other attractions – including where to go for mini golf. An online
version can be found HERE.
For a change of scene the neighbouring village of Alykanas is within
easy walking distance.
Alykanas
Alykes is separated from Alykanas by the river Skourtis. The river area
has recently been landscaped and is a very pleasant stroll up to the main
road leading down to Alykanas. Alternatively it can be reached by walking
along the beach.
The main street is lined with the usual mix of tavernas and bars. The
village centre did seem to be some distance from the beach.
Old Alykanas can be found just around the headland. This is a low key
area with a series of much quieter small beaches.
Around the Island
We hired a car from Dragon Car Hire at 28 € per day – the
going rate via the tour rep was 45 € per day.
Despite having a good map, poor road signs meant that it was quite easy
to end up on the wrong road.
Katastari
Katastari is a pleasant walk from Alykes up through the vines and olive
trees. There is a taverna in the village - but it was closed on the evening
that we decided to try it.
Xingla
The first known beach heading north is at Xingla. A very small beach
tainted by the smell of sulphur from the nearby springs.
Makris
Gialos
Just around the corner is Makris Gialos. This is a much better beach
(stony) with a taverna across the road. A swimming stop for some of the
round the island cruises. Just up the road is the pleasant hamlet of Kokkinou.
Agh. Nikolaos (north)
A very pleasant fishing village with a beach and a few tavernas for
the pre or post boat trip meal. This is where you can find the best choice
of trips available to the blue caves and the shipwreck (Navagio).
Cape Skinari Lighthouse
Closest point to the blue caves – boats leave from the jetty below
the lighthouse. This is also the closest point on Zakynthos to Kefalonia
– about 8 miles away. The view is dominated by Mt Aenos, the spine
of Kefalonia.
Cape Skinari Windmills
To the right before the track down to the lighthouse are a couple of
windmills. Both are available to rent, which is fine as long as you don’t
mind your holiday home being photographed all day long. There are steps
down to a series of sunbathing platforms. When it is windy the trips to
the Blue Caves leave from here instead of the lighthouse jetty. There
is a Café bar with excellent views.
Blue Caves
The Blue Caves are best visited in a small boat – this allows the
captain to take the boat into some of the caves. The bigger, round the
island boats cannot enter the caves.
There are trips available from almost anywhere on the island. The nearest
points to the caves are Agh Nikolaos and Cape Skinari.
We chose a trip from Agh Nikolaos, which lasted about 1 hour and cost
€5 each. It was quite an interesting ride around the cliffs and we
were able to see how, by a ‘trick of the light’ items placed
in the water (stick, hand etc) turned an amazing electric blue.
Shipwreck
Pick
up a holiday brochure for Greece and the chances are there will be a picture
of Shipwreck beach; this is the postcard image of Zakynthos.
In 1980 the freighter, named Pangiotis, was suspected of carrying contraband.
With the Greek Navy in hot pursuit the ship ran aground in stormy seas.
It could not have ended up in a more picturesque setting if it had been
picked up and placed there.
One of the main reasons for visiting this island was to photograph Navagio.
It was certainly a highlight of the holiday. It was so good we went there
twice.
There is a very good tarmac road from Volimes down to the main viewing
area, although parking is limited. Facilities consist of a taverna, which
appears to have been closed for some time, a snack cantina and a man strategically
placed to sell honey to people on route to the viewing platform. The taverna
building does have a toilet but its use is strictly for the desperate.
Although pictures portray a stunning scene it is difficult to capture
the overall beauty and the absolute exhilaration of standing near the
cliff edge to take in the view.
Our first visit was late afternoon on what had been a very windy day.
The beach below was deserted except for the rusting shell of the Panagiotis.
There
is a viewing platform, a maximum of 4 persons at a time, which extends
from the cliff and allows a view to the beach and straight down to the
sea below. When we arrived we could see people standing on a cliff to
the right – we thought that they must be mad !. However, to get
the best view it is necessary to walk over a rough rocky path out onto
the ridge to the north. From some precarious vantage points there are
excellent views back into the bay. The sea is an incredible blue. The
shipwreck actually enhances the scene.
Our second visit was in the morning and consequently the whole area was
far less crowded. For a change of view we decided to see what the beach
looked like from directly above. It was not long before the track degenerated
into a rough and at times a precariously steep path. Having got to a point
at the cliff edge just above the wreck, the next challenge was to actually
take some pictures. I managed to get pictures by holding the camera out
over the edge of the cliff – it was just too scary to get any closer.
At least with a digital camera I could check to see that I had actually
got pictures with the shipwreck in the view.
I had left Noreen some way behind up the cliff. Our agreed communication
technique was somewhat primitive. Essentially silence meant everything
was OK. She only needed to be concerned about my welfare if she heard
any screams.
On the way back up we met a young couple coming down the slope –
he had a young child on his shoulders. They asked if this was the way
to the ‘beach’. As they did not seem to have any rope with
them we directed them to the viewing platform. Sometimes a little bit
of research goes a long way – the actual beach can only be reached
by boat (or with a very long piece of rope). I suppose in their defence
the signs do direct you to ‘Shipwreck beach’. As we neared
the top there was a steady stream of intrepid beach finders. As we past
them we just said hello. This route is not recommended for children, anyone
with walking disabilities or those of a nervous disposition. However,
the views are spectacular.
Caretta Caretta
As we all know, the Loggerhead sea turtle is an endangered species. It
has nesting grounds on the beaches around Laganas bay. Some areas of the
beaches are closed from dusk until dawn but given the volume of tourist
development in these areas there is a clear clash of interests. A National
Marine Park has been established to help protect the turtles.
Villages
Many will have stalls set out at the roadside selling local crafts, including
carpets, olive oil, wine, honey, table cloths, pottery, herbs etc.
Volimes
Not the prettiest of places but the most populated village on the island.
This is the roadside selling ‘capital’ of the island with
all manner of local products for sale.
Maries
This is a nice village on the west of the island with a number of tavernas
promising the ‘best sunset view’.
Vromi
From
Maries there is a very good road that descends down to Vromi bay from
the southern side. There is a small beach served by a cantina. The road
is a dead end, which is when we discovered that there are actually two
inlets within the bay. To reach the other side of the bay involves driving
all the way back up to Maries, on to Anofonitria and then down again.
Both journeys are worth the effort. Watch out for a parking area on a
hairpin bend – there are some more excellent coastal views from
the cliff edge.
Exo Chora
This is famous for the oldest olive tree on the island. A large taverna
is conveniently located near the tree.
Kambi
Here there are a number of tavernas located on the cliff edge with spectacular
coastal views and perfectly situated for the ‘best sunset view’.
Keri
At
Cape Keri there is a lighthouse and good coast views to the north. Just
before the Cape is the Keri Lighthouse taverna. From the terrace there
are wonderful views out to the small rocky islands known as Myzthres.
The taverna is also the home to the biggest Greek flag raised on a permanent
pole, with an area of 670 square metres. On our visit only the pole was
on view. For more information about the flag visit HERE.
Keri Beach
This is a small village with a nice beach backed by trees and a sprinkling
of bars and tavernas. Good views to Marathonisis island, also know as
Turtle island.
Tsilivi/Planos
This is the main package holiday resort on the east coast. The resort
is very developed (KFC, MacDonald’s etc) and very British.
To the north there are a number of less developed areas with pleasant
beach areas such as Amoudi and Drosia.
Zakynthos Town
As
with most visitors to the town we headed for the main square of Solomou
which is also the location of the Church of St Denis. Saint Denis (Aghios
Dionysos) is the patron saint of Zakynthos and his mummified remains are
housed in the church. If you are lucky enough to be there in August, the
mummified body is paraded through the town.
Behind Solomou are busy streets lined with bars and shops.
Overlooking the town is a Venetian Kastro and an area known as Bochali.
Here there is a large car park and Café bars with views down to
the town and across the sea to the mainland.
The town also has one of those little tourist trains and is a good way
to explore the town.
From below the ‘Best View’ café is prominently signposted.
The very enterprising owners had managed to provide a multitude of signs
to direct you to their café. From the café there were great
views of the town and south to Vasilikos and Laganas bay.
Argasi
This is another very busy resort just 4 kms south of Zakynthos town.
The main road through is lined with the usual tourist fare but with less
‘neon’ than say Tsilivi. The beach here is sandy but narrow.
Vasilikos Peninsular
This is probably the most picturesque area of the island and home to
some of the best sandy beaches. The beaches themselves are not always
signposted; instead use the signs advertising tavernas and bars to identify
the beach. Our first stop was at Kaminia which consisted of a café,
taverna, a few rooms for rent, a large lawned area and a serviced beach.
Our next stop was at Porto Zorro, bigger than Kaminia with a large taverna
and over 100 sunbeds crammed onto the sandy beach.
Banana
beach was distinctive for its many beach bars all with huge palm roofs.
There are lots of sunbeds and plenty of opportunities for watersports.
For a more sheltered beach, venture just around the headland to Agh. Nikolaos,
named after the small chapel located at the northern end of the beach.
Agh. Nikolaos is dominated by a big beach club and is also a stopping
off point for boat trips. The south facing Gerakas beach is very popular
and gets busy early. The beach is also one of the main nesting grounds
for the loggerhead turtle – there are numerous restrictions on development
in the area and tourist activities to help protect the turtles.
A short drive through the hills to the south coast of the peninsular
leads down to Dafni beach. There is a large car park. From the hillside
we could also see another apparently deserted beach, possibly Sekania,
but never did find the track down to it. Perhaps that is why it was deserted.
Kalamaki
The resort is at the far eastern side of Laganas bay. It is quite spread
out in a grid like fashion with no particular central area. The beach
is big, sandy and popular. The beach here shelves gently making it an
ideal spot for families. The area had a more Greek feel than some of the
east coast resorts. Make the most of it as just along the coast lies the
infamous resort of Laganas.
Laganas
This is the party capital of the island and one of the liveliest resorts
not just on Zakynthos but in all of Greece. There is over 5kms of sandy
beach and all the bars and clubs you could possibly wish for. Don’t
go here if you want a quiet or peaceful time. We did not visit.
Eating out
We found most tavernas to be very good value. The basic cost of a meal
plus a couple of beers and half a kilo of house wine costs about €35.
Amstel
Cost of Living Index
Taverna 2.00€
Supermarket – 500ml bottle 0.74€, can 1.10 €
Cigarettes
I had always assumed that the price of cigarettes in Greece was Government
controlled i.e. the price charged is the same wherever they are purchased.
However, I discovered in Alykanas that the price was negotiable. Which
now makes sense given the hundreds of lighters that have been given away
‘free’ to me during the many years visiting Greece. So instead
of 3€ per pack I paid 2.83€. Not sure you could get this deal
anywhere but this was in a shop (Tobacco Station) that only sold cigarettes!!
Leaving
The departure hall is located in the original airport building. It is
far too small to accommodate the numbers and consequently it is necessary
to queue outside. We were able to queue in a shaded area but be prepared
to stand out in the sun. Once inside it gets even worse as there is limited
seating unless you are prepared to sit on the floor. We found the food
and drink to be particularly expensive even by normal Greek airport standards.
Our experience means that Zakynthos now takes over from Corfu at the top
of the ‘airport hell’ league.
Update: As of April
2008 the new airport building is complete and operational. This will hopefully
resolve the overcrowding problems and provide a more pleasant way to leave
the island. The old terminal building will now be used for domestic flights
only. Corfu airport is back to number 1.
Conclusion
We enjoyed our holiday and found Alykes a pleasant place to stay.
For something livelier then Tsilivi or Argasi would be a better choice.
For the full on party experience, then just head for Laganas.
However, for a more traditional Greek holiday then Vasilikos would be
the best bet. It is also the most picturesque area of the island and home
to the best beaches.
To visit the Zakynthos picture gallery - click HERE
Amstel
Cost of Living Index