To visit the Skiathos picture gallery (1994-2001) -
click HERE
To see pictures of Skiathos taken in September 2003
- click HERE
To see pictures of Skiathos taken in June 2008 - click
HERE
NEW - Pictures of Skiathos
taken in May/June 2009 - click HERE
7 August 2008 - Travelogue updated.
Introduction
Skiathos is one of the small islands in the group known as the Sporades.
It lies just off the coast of the Pelion region of mainland Greece.
It lacks the ancient archaeological sites
present on many other Greek islands although there are a number of interesting
monasteries. Most visitors come here for the superb beaches and the traditional
Greek hospitality. There are over 60 beaches to choose from ranging from
the magnificent sweep of Koukounaries to cosy coves for two. For the more
energetic there are many waymarked trails all over the island which offer
excellent walks using tracks and dirt roads.
 The
town is the only permanent place of settlement on the island. Settlements
outside of the town exist almost exclusively for tourists. Although the
interior is very pretty, don’t expect to find quaint little villages.
Even before the paved road was built between the town and Koukounaries,
Skiathos was a well known holiday destination for wealthy Greeks from
Athens and Thessaloniki. It was in the 1970’s that development accelerated
with the completion of the coastal road and the building of the airport
– both in 1973. However, it was a further 10 years before direct
charter flights from northern Europe arrived.
 In
June 2008 we made our ninth visit to Skiathos after a 5 year break. Our
first visit was back in 1994. Since then of course there have been many
changes to meet the demands of tourism. However, overall we don’t
think that the island has been spoiled; it still retains the natural beauty
that made us return year after year.
We were also curious to see the effect that the serious fire of July
2007 had on the landscape. The fire started up near the municipal dump
and driven by high winds swept across the island, reaching down to the
coast between Agia Paraskevi and Troulos. Many of the pine trees were
lost but one year later the land appears to have recovered remarkably
quickly. I suppose if you had never visited the island before, the treeless
landscape that now exists in the affected part of the island does not
detract from its overall beauty.
10th visit made in May/June 2009.
Arrival
 Skiathos
International Airport “A Papadiamantis” is an airport with
character. Landing is normally on a southern approach, flying over the
neighbouring island of Skopelos and then turning 180 degrees to the right.
This is the point when you may be able to catch sight of the runway –
if it looks short, that’s because it is. The runway is just 1570
metres long. This is at least 500 metres short of a good length. In reality
the only difference this makes on landing is the urgency with which the
captain applies the brakes.
After leaving the airport the first introduction to the island will be
the town’s ring road. On our first visit we found this rather scruffy
and we were worried about what the rest of the island might be like. Over
the years we have grown to see this as part of the charm of a Greek island.
Once up at the Acropolis, heading out of the town, the views improve dramatically
as the first glimpses of the coastline come into view. The beaches look
wonderful and there is a strong scent of pine plus many varieties of herbs.
This is an aspect that we always recollect about Skiathos and something
of course that pictures can never convey.
The majority of the coastal road is lined with hotels, villas and studios.
However, the interior and north of the island are largely untouched and
well worth taking the time to explore.
Agia Paraskevi
We have always stayed in Agia Paraskevi. There is an excellent beach,
a good choice of accommodation and a nice selection of tavernas, many
having adjoining bars with comfortable chairs.
Agia Paraskevi is on the coastal road midway between the Town and Koukounaries.
The journey from the airport is little more than 20 mins. The taxi fare
back into the town was 9€ in 2008.
The area is named after the church of Agia Paraskevi (Saint Friday).
The beach is also known as Platanias.
The Skiathos Princess Hotel dominates one end of the beach. At the moment
the rest of the meadow land behind the beach is completely undeveloped
and long may it stay that way. The Princess Hotel has been considerably
improved over the years. A boardwalk has been laid for guests to get to
some rather nice sunbeds. The beach taverna run by the hotel has also
had a makeover and now looks very smart but with prices to match.
Platanias beach can get quite busy. For something a bit quieter a climb
over the rocks to the right brings you to an unspoilt beach. However,
the land above the beach, which was badly affected by the fire in 2007,
is already being built on – apartments with steps down to the beach.
Sunbeds can be expected soon!
 Not
so long ago there were 2 rustic beach tavernas but these have now both
gone. We used to spend many an hour listening to the alcohol fuelled conversations
of the locals as the sun set. A new looking snack bar can be found at
the eastern end of the beach and a kiosk at the hotel end. There is a
very good choice of tavernas up on the main road, just a 5 minute walk
away. All offer a good Greek kitchen. Most visitors to this area are from
the UK but thankfully the menus have not been anglified. There is a Gyros
bar just of the main road in front of the Roulla apartments and opposite
the supermarket. This is the only Gyros bar outside of the town. We regularly
used the Kohili, good food and interesting staff.
For something more energetic than lazing on the beach, there is a wonderful
walk out through the middle of the island and across to the north coast
at Kechria. The track starts to the right of the Platanias taverna. About
halfway at a crossroads, look out for a path which is a shortcut down
through the valley and avoids following the dirt track road around the
hillside.
In 2008 we stayed at the Ostria Hotel. It is located centrally just back
from the main road and only 5 minutes walk to the beach. This is good
quality, well maintained accommodation. Some pictures can be found HERE.
A few more pictures taken of the Ostria in May 2009 can be seen HERE.
 Since the demise of XL Airways in
2008, the Ostria can no longer be booked via the UK travel company Kosmar.
Hovever in 2009, Thompson now feature the Ostria in their Small and Friendly
brochure. Online details can be found HERE.
The owners have also created a website so it is now possible to book
direct - link here Ostria
Hotel.
 Skiathos
Town
The Town of Skiathos is cosmopolitan and the life and soul of the island.
There are two harbours (old and new), separated by the wooded peninsular
known as the Bourtzi. Tavernas, restaurants and bars line the harbour
areas and there are many more waiting to be discovered in the maze of
side alleys. There are menus to suit all tastes and pockets. There are
plenty of places that offer cocktails etc at reduced prices. So buy cocktails
during the happy hour(s) and keep moving to stay happy. One of the most
popular activities is simply relaxing with a drink and watching the world
go by.
Since our last visit it was noticeable that a significant effort had
been made to smarten up certain areas. Both the Harbour areas and the
main shopping street of Papadiamantis street have been paved. Everywhere
just looks so much tidier and cleaner. An attempt has also been made to
pedestrianise some areas – but don’t be too surprised to see
an occasional motorbike.
The town really comes alive at night and there is a great atmosphere
just strolling around the harbour or up into the narrow back streets.
It is difficult to recommend particular tavernas as there are so many
but worthy of mention is Sofia’s Family Restaurant up by the clock
tower. Good food and wonderful views. We also enjoyed the tavernas located
past the old harbour and up the steps by the church square. If you continue
walking in this area you will stumble across the older part of the town
where most of the locals live.
 For
something livelier the majority of the towns 'nightspots' are located
on the ‘club strip’ out along the coastal road to the airport.
This area is only really busy during July and August when the island’s
population is swelled by large numbers of Greeks and Italians.
In 2003 we noticed that a MacDonald’s had opened in lower Papadiamantis
Street. In 2008 it had gone, presumably it was unable to compete with
the no name gyros bar a few doors away. Good !!
 Around
the Island
While sitting in a taverna one day, we overheard someone say that they
had hired a car for 3 days ... “had seen the entire island in half
a day ... waste of time” How wrong they were. It really is worth
hiring some kind of vehicle. A 4WD, motorbike or scooter will allow you
to more easily use the many dirt tracks that criss cross the island. Having
your own transport makes it so much easier to get to the more remote north
coast beaches.
There are very few pavements, in fact outside of the town none !! This
means that while concentrating on avoiding any oncoming taxis, skill is
required to avoid pedestrians that are forced to walk in the road. As
a pedestrian be prepared to dive off into the undergrowth.
Over the years more roads have been metalled. The new roads are mainly
above the town. However, there are still plenty of dirt tracks to explore,
particularly in the south of the island. By 2009, a new paved road now
goes almost all of the way to the Kastro.
June 2009 - Jeep Hire – 3 days for the price of 2 – 85€
In our second week we hired a jeep for 1 day – the cost 40€
 There
is a very good bus service that runs from the town to Koukounaries. This
is worth experiencing at least once - then get a taxi. To say the bus
can get jam-packed is an understatement. If necessary the conductor will
leave the bus so that he can push people from behind to squeeze them on
the bus. Just when you think that they can’t possibly get any more
people on, the bus will stop at the next stop. Amazingly the conductor
will still manage to collect everyone’s fare. A true master of his
profession.
Taxi drivers on the other hand seem to believe they are invincible. I
suspect that this is a common misconception amongst Greek taxi drivers
in general. However, if you are really not comfortable driving on the
wrong side of the road, overtaking on blind bends etc then get the bus
(but see comments on the Bus above).
Bus Stop 0-Town – new harbour
Bus Stop 1-Cross Roads/Ring Road
Bus Stop 2-Delta/Ring Road
Bus Stop 3-Ring Road
Bus Stop 4-Acropolis/Medical centre
Bus Stop 5-Beginning of Megali Ammos
Bus Stop 6-Poseidon Taverna/Meg. Ammos
Bus Stop 7-Megali Ammos
Bus Stop 8-Kassandra Hotel
Bus Stop 9-Villa Kim
Bus Stop 10-Esperides Hotel
Bus Stop 11-Villa Aspri / Sklithri
Bus Stop 12-Kanapitsa
Bus Stop 13-Nostos/Hermes Apt.
Bus Stop 14-Kolios/Beach
Bus Stop 15-Margi House
Bus Stop 16-Princess Hotel
Bus Stop 17-Poros/Troulos
Bus Stop 18-Asselinos Junction
Bus Stop 19-Victoria Complex
Bus Stop 20-Troulos Beach/Astoria
Bus Stop 21-OTE
Bus Stop 22-Palace Hotel
Bus Stop 23-Caravos Hotel
Bus Stop 24-Maria Studios/Super Market
Bus Stop 25-Golden Beach/Agia Eleni
Bus Stop 26-Koukounaries Beach/Banana Beach
 People
that come to Skiathos for the beaches will not be disappointed. The beaches
along the south coast have golden sand and crystal clear blue waters.
The northern beaches require much more effort to get to but the reward
is a backdrop of a totally unspoilt landscape. Here is an attempt to list
some of the many beaches that Skiathos is famed for. There are many other
smaller, more intimate beaches, just waiting to be discovered.
The locations of the beaches can be found on the following
map of Skiathos.
 Megali
Amos (Bus Stop 5)
The nearest beach to the town and as a result gets very busy. A narrow
stretch of sand that extends some way along the coast. Plenty of places
to eat nearby.
Achladias (Esperides Hotel) (Bus
Stop 10)
Accessed via a path to the side of the hotel.
 Tzaneria
(Bus Stop 12)
This beach
is also known as Nostos. It is a very sheltered bay with a smart beach
taverna. This is also the start of the Kalamaki peninsular. A tour of
the peninsular should ensure you see somewhere you may wish to spend the
rest of your days. Numerous very desirable villas – but if you need
to ask how much … you can’t afford one!
The Nostos bungalows that overlook the beach are now being sold off for
time share.
 Rigas
(Bus Stop 12)
A very beautiful
beach when viewed from the hillside above. I suspect that the only access
to the beach is by boat as the land above is occupied by villas.
 Katsouri
(Bus Stop 13)
Another beach on the Kalamaki peninsular reached via a path down from
the dirt track.
 Vromolimnos
(Bus Stop 13)
There were 2 tavernas but in 2008 the bigger taverna was closed and looked
as if it had been for some time. The lively bar at the end of the beach
was still going strong. Popular spot for some late afternoon partying.
Kolios (Bus Stop
14)
Mid way between Vromolimnos and Paraskevi but much quieter. A very good
beach taverna. There is a campsite at the back of the beach but I have
never seen anyone using it. The bay is also a favourite anchorage for
some very desirable boats.
 Platanias
(Bus Stop 16)
This is the beach of Agia Paraskevi and is one of our favourites. Backed
by the impressive Skiathos Princess Hotel there is a lovely sweep of golden
sand although the beach does shelve quite steeply into the sea. There
is a full range of watersports available including boat hire.
Troulos (Bus Stops
18, 19 and 20)
Outside of the town this is the closest to any kind of settlement. It
is however, predominantly tourist accommodation, with most of the visitors
being from the UK.
The beautiful beach is backed by a couple of very good tavernas, an Ideal
spot for a relaxing lunch to escape the heat of the afternoon. The beach
does get very busy and always seems crowded.
The escape route is a good walk out along the quiet road to Aselinos.
Maratha (Bus Stop
22)
Near the Skiathos Palace Hotel.
Mandraki (Bus
Stop 24)
Reached via a track from Koukounaries, it is quite a long walk through
a magnificent Pine tree forest but well worth the effort. A lovely curved
bay which is unusually backed by sandstone cliffs. The beach gets its
name from the word ‘Mandra’, Greek for livestock enclosure.
 Agia
Eleni (Bus Stop 25)
A perfect spot to watch the sun go down over the Pelion peninsular. Couple
of beach tavernas.
On a very first visit back in 1994 we stopped off at this beach on a
round the island boat trip. We had excellent Souvlaki, fried fish and
plenty of wine. We have been back many times since to watch the sun set.
 The
taverna stays open for the sunset trade. Ideal if you want a simple meal
in beautiful surroundings with just a handful of people for company. It
is very peaceful except for the obligatory shouting match that can occasionally
be heard from the kitchen.
From the far end of the beach there is a path which goes up and over
the headland to Small Banana beach.
 Hidden
Beach (Bus Stop 25)
Not anymore !! Head towards Eleni and then take the track signposted
up over the hill to the right. The beach is also known as Krifi Amos and
is in a wonderful natural setting. Where once upon a time the track came
to a dead end here it now continues on to make it much easier to reach
Mandraki and Elias.
 Banana
(Krassi) (Bus Stop 26)
Banana is reached from the track just before the parking area for Koukounaries.
Up over a hill and down through the olive trees. There are actually 2
beaches separated by a rocky headland - Big Banana and Little Banana,
one of which is nudist. More is revealed at the Banana
Beach Website. Facing west, this is another favourite spot to watch
the sun set. A couple of trendy bars provide the entertainment.
 Koukounaries
(Bus Stop 26)
This is quite rightly acknowledged as one of the prettiest beaches in
the whole of Greece. The downside is that it is very popular and is covered
in sunbeds from one end to the other.
The sandy beach curves around the bay for nearly a kilometre and there
is a wonderful smell from the pine trees that back onto the beach. Finally
after all these years I have just discovered that ‘Koukounaries’
is Greek for pine cones – should have been obvious really ! There
are tracks through the trees to the lake.
Apart from the sunbeds the area has been developed so that the beach
tavernas, bars and even the toilets blend into the surroundings. The boardwalk
looks as if it is meant to be there. The council have endeavoured to keep
the area as natural as possible. All tourist development is well away
from the beach on the other side of the lake and lining the main road
heading around to the beach.
The only eyesore is the abandoned shell of the Xenia hotel sitting atop
of the headland. Although the Skiathos Palace hotel on the opposite headland
is probably due an expensive makeover.
There are plenty of watersports on offer plus boat trips around the island.
If you don’t mind the crowds this is a fantastic beach.
Abelakia beach (Bus Stop 26)
Situated between Koukounaries and Banana. Follow the track to Banana
and then take the signposted path down to the left. Behind the beach is
a very swish new taverna/bar, with prices to match.
 Elias
This beach can be reached by a dirt track from Koukounaries (further
on from the turn off to Mandraki) through the pine forest. There is a
boardwalk from the car park down to the taverna and beach.
A spectacular wide sweeping bay backed by heather and shrubs. There are
sunbeds and a cantina at the western end of the beach. To the east, where
the nudists tend to go, there are a number of wooden constructions used
as mini shelters.
An alternative route is via a track off the road to Aselinos. On route
there are excellent views down to Koukounaries and across to the mainland.
The track ends at a headland with Elias to the left and to the right is
the beach of Agistros.
 Agistros
Next to Elias and now boasting a cantina. Park on the headland and go
down the steps to the beach. For the more adventurous, try taking a vehicle
down the very steep dirt track. You may need 4WD to get back up!
 Aselinos
(Bus Stop 18)
Reached via a good tarmac road from Troulos
and also popular with the round the island boat excursions. This is a
long beach with a large taverna. In 2008 the adjacent snack bar was closed.
As with the other north facing beaches it can be windy here and the waves
quite spectacular due to the predominant north wind.
The big taverna is still operational but in 2008 the only rain we had
during our 2 week stay happened while we were in the taverna having lunch
– a new roof needs to be high on the list of improvements. We lost
count of the number of times we moved tables to avoid rain drops in our
food.
This beach is a popular destination for people walking out from Troulos.
During the spring, no later than May, the meadows on route are covered
in wild flowers.
Mikro Aselinos
Mikro Aselinos - up over the headland from Aselinos - now with a cantina.
 Kechria
A wonderful walk across the heart of the island from Ag. Paraskevi will
bring you to Kechria. However, this is one of those beaches that looks
better when viewed from a distance but the walk there is certainly worthwhile.
There is a smaller beach with a small beach taverna to the right –
this is sometimes called Super Paradise.
 Kastro
Frequented by round the island cruises. There is a beach cantina and
for the energetic, a stiff climb up a steep path to the remains of the
old town. This is worth the climb when you get there.
Lalaria
The magnificent Lalaria beach, on the north coast, can only be reached
by boat and only then if it is not too windy. Well worth a visit. It is
a stony beach made up of many different colour pebbles which reflect to
spectacular effect in the azure blue sea. It is said if you swim through
the rock arch twice you get younger.
Nikotsara
A narrow inlet with a small stony beach. Absolutely no facilities. The
journey down to the beach is the fun part!
Gialos
Difficult to get to and lacks appeal, even from a distance.
Xanemo
Located at the northern end of the runway,
this is a perfect spot if you enjoy viewing aircraft at close quarters.
They may land or take off directly overhead !! There is also another beach
to the right of the flight path.
Tsougria
This is one of the small islands off the south coast. Boat trips from
the town are readily available and take you to a fantastic beach with
a small cantina serving basic food.
Boat Trips
If you are on a package holiday, boat trips are the most popular of the
excursions on offer.
My advice would be to get down to the town around 9am and sit in one
of the cafes around the old harbour. The boat owners will be looking for
trade – just sit back and decide which boat/trip/captain you fancy.
Not only will there be more choice but by paying ‘direct’
it will be much cheaper. Most of the trips leave around 10am. in 2009,
average prices were 20-30€ for a trip around the island and 35€
+ for a trip to Skopelos/Alonisos.
If choosing the round the island trip, check with the captain if the
boat is going to Lalaria - sometimes a strong north wind prevents safe
passage around the north of the island. There will also be trips to Tsougria,
water taxis out to specific beaches and for something further afield bigger
boats go out to the neighbouring islands of Skopelos and Alonissos. The
latter can also be reached using the Flying Dolphins, tickets from the
harbour office. It is also possible to hire out small motor boats –
these are also available from many of the more popular beaches.
Evangelistria Monastery
The road to the monastery is well signposted from the town ring road.
There is a reasonably good road all the way up. Dating from the 18th century
the setting, high in the hills, is very spectacular. Monks still live
and work here and for some reason there are many caged birds in the inner
courtyard. While up in this area, an ideal spot for a break is at the
Platanos Taverna. From the balcony there are superb views down to the
town and across to Skopelos.
Kastro
The Kastro is the ruins of the fortified medieval capital of the island.
It is located on a rocky promontory in the north of the island and its
location offered some protection from the pirate raids. There is a new
tarmac road which goes almost all the way to Kastro. The bad news is that
the section that is not tarmac has to be one of the worst tracks on the
whole island. It is very rocky so be prepared for a bumpy ride (or a long
walk). From the car park there is a steady walk downhill to the Kastro
– best avoided in the mid-day sun. Round the island boat trips also
stop at the beach below the Kastro and the passengers are allowed time
to make the walk up the cliff path.
While we were resting in the church courtyard an elderly man appeared
and put sweets on the table. This was followed by some glasses. My wish
came true when he then came over with some tsipouro. He told us that he
was part of a group known as the ‘Friends of Kastro’. There
are some 200 members worldwide but only about 20 or so ever make it to
the island in any one year. Essentially they provide voluntary help to
maintain the site.
Haralambos Monastery
This is well off the beaten track and reached via a rocky track off the
road to the Kastro. To avoid back tracking the only way out is down a
very steep, precarious and rough dirt track down towards the town. The
Monastery is very well maintained but the only life we encountered while
we were there were the cats.
Watching the aeroplanes
This is a popular activity, particularly on the busiest airport days
of Tuesday and Friday. It is possible to stand right at the end of the
runway although beware that on take-off there is significant blast from
the jet engines as the pilot throttles back.
Landings are more spectacular and usually arrive from the south, coming
in very low over the harbour area, parallel to the town. Go to www.youtube.com
and enter ‘skiathos airport’.
For an alternative view, try the beach at Xenemos which is at the northern
end of the runway.
Eating Out
Despite the obvious commercialism of the island it was interesting to
note that the vast majority of tavernas offered traditional Greek kitchens
rather than trying to specifically pander to other nationalities tastes.
The town offered the option of a more ‘international cuisine’.
A meal for two with a couple of drinks was about 40€. The most we
paid in the town was 50€.
 Amstel
Cost of Living Index as of 2009
Taverna 2.50€
Supermarket – 500ml bottle - cost varied enormously from 0.92€
in one of the big town supermarkets to 1.30€ in a resort supermarket.
In 2008 the UK exchange rate dropped from 1.40€ to 1.20€ -
this made a significant impact on spending power. To be fair most taverna
owners had resisted the temptation to increase prices which meant that
their prices did seem reasonable. Holidays to places like Greece and Spain
are no longer the cheap holiday option they once were.
By 2009 the Euro was worth just 1.09€. Again, prices seem to have
been held but there were significantly fewer visitors to the island.
Departure
Until the airport buildings were extended in 2002, passengers were instructed
to check in and then go to one of the two tavernas that existed just over
the road. Tannoy announcements were made from here but more importantly
you could actually see your plane land. This would be the signal to head
for Passport Control. Nowadays the airport is capable of handing many
more people and whilst you are not encouraged to go to the taverna (only
Tiffany’s is now operating), many people still do. Tannoy announcements
are no longer made but you can still see the plane land – from that
point there is a minimum of 45 minutes to get through Passport Control.
When we first visited Skiathos it was common practice for flights back
to the UK to make a refuelling stop at Thessaloniki. This was because
the planes were unable to take off from the short runway with a full load
of fuel. Nowadays if you are lucky some flights return direct to the UK.
Otherwise you may find yourself making a stop at any one of the following:-
Thessaloniki – refuel – stay on the plane. This can add up
to an hour to the return flight.
Volos – stay on the plane and pick up passengers from Pelion.
Kavala – pick up passengers from Thassos. Leave the plane and wait
in a transit lounge.
To visit the Skiathos picture gallery (1994-2001) -
click HERE
To see pictures of Skiathos taken in September 2003
- click HERE
To see pictures of Skiathos taken in June 2008 - click
HERE
NEW - Pictures of Skiathos
taken in May/June 2009 - click HERE
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